A day in Lucknow - The City of Nawabs (Part-1)

There is this famous poetry about Lucknow

लखनऊ है तो महज़ गुम्बद-ओ -मीनार नहीं 

Lucknow hai to mahaz gumbad-o meenar nahi 

सिर्फ एक शहर नहीं कूचा-ओ-बाज़ार नहीं 

Sirf ek shahar nahi kooch-o bazaar nahi 

इसके आँचल में मोहब्बत के फूल खिलते हैं 

Iske aanchal mein mohabbat ke phool khilte hain 

इसकी गलियों में फरिश्तों के पते मिलते हैं 

Iski galion mein farishton ke pate milte hain

(Lucknow is not just its domes and minarets, 

  not just a city or markets and corridors, 

  in its lap are grown the flowers of love, 

  in its alleyways you find the addresses of angels)

We are a resident of Lucknow and have seen all the tourist points many time, but we wanted to travel the historical part of the city again in a one day package as an outsider tourist will do. Lucknow has many attractions but most of the historical heritage points are located in the heart of the town on the Mahatma Gandhi Road leading to Husainabad Trust Road. You can visit 'Asifi or Bara Imambara (Big shrine)', 'Husainabad or Chota Imambara (Small Shrine)', Clock Tower, Picture Gallary, Roomi Gate and British Residency. The heart of Hazratganj (City Center) is also nearby and you can enjoy the Awadhi and Mughlai cuisine in any of the restaurants in this area or in the roadside joints near Tulsi Complex.

See the red circles for spot locations (Source: Google Map)

Bara Imambara:

First of all we reached the Bara Imambara. Bara means big and Imambara is a shrine for the purpose of Azadari (The processions and ritual performed during the Muharram are known as Azadari). It is a large complex with Main Imambara building, Bhool Bulaiyan (Maze or Labyrinth), Bouli (Step well) and Asifi Masjid inside. It was started in 1783 by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula for providing jobs to peaple during a famine in Lucknow. It took 14 years to complete.It has two grand entrance in the shape of triple arch gateways. 

Introduction Stone

Entrance Fee

The combined entry fee for Bara imambara, Baoli, Chota Imambara and Picture gallary is INR 35 for adults and INR 15 for kids between 5 to 12 years. Entry fee for foreign tourist is INR 350, which in my opinion is exorbitantly high. 

Guide Charges

Guide charges shown above is only for main building and Labyrinth section. For Baoli or Step well, it is negotiable, we paid Rs. 50 extra for showing us the Baoli.

Below you can see the official sign of Awadh that was a pair of fishes. The same has been taken by the Government of Uttar Pradesh also in its official seal.

One arch of the first gateway

First gateway and garden from inside

Second Gateway from inside

Second Gateway leading to main building

Right side of main building with Asifi mosque

Left side of main building

After crossing the two gateways you see the main building of Imambara. It has been divided in 3 halls - named as China hall, Persian hall and Indian hall. The central hall is sized 52 meter long, 16 meter wide and 15 meter high, and is one of the largest hall of its kind in the world, without any column and beam. The whole building is made of Lucknowi Bricks (sometimes called Lakauri bricks) which are thin bricks. No wood, metal or cement has been used.The main architect of the building was Kifayatullah. The Central hall has the graveyard of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula. 
The same roof covers three halls in all, the Persian Hall, the China Hall and the Indian Hall. The Persian Hall is the central hall, which is quite large in size. The China Hall is of an interesting shape, being square at ground level, octagonal at mid-height and 16-sided at the top. The India Hall is in the shape of a watermelon.
Below are some pictures of inside the main building-

Central Hall

Central Hall - the largest unsupported roof

Roof of the Indian Hall

In the balcony of central Persian hall (Graveyard of Asif-ud-Daula is seen below)

You will find some guides burning a matchbox stick at the other end of the balconies that have openings to the Central Hall.  In fact, this is another significant and architectural art of the building that has been used in this structure.  You can listen the sound  of a match stick at the other end of the hall.  It is really interesting and seems unbelievable. If you happen to visit this monument, please do observe this uniqueness
Labyrinth or Bhool Bhulaiyan:
Surrounding the main hall is a 3D labyrinth or Bhool Bhulaiyan (भूल भुलैयाँ ), one and only of its kind in India.  On left hand side you will see steep chain of stairs going up to the roof of the monument. 

Way to staircase leading to Labyrinth

Rules for Labyrinth

Shoes and slippers not allowed inside halls and in the labyrinth. The guide is compulsory if visitor is a couple.

Long staircase leading to labyrinth and rooftop

This amazing maze consists of corridors hidden betwen 20 feet wide walls. It is dark, scary and has dead ends at some points. You can enjoy it if you take services of a guide.
Here are some pics of maze corridors and view from rooftop.

Corridor on front side

Maze has many such similar looking 4 way points

Corridor on other side

Views from rooftop of Imambara:
You can see the magnificent views from the roof top with River Gomti, Roomi gate, Asifi masjid and 'Teele wali Masjid (Mosque on a hillock)' in view.

On far distance - River Gomti & White Mosque is Teele wali Masjid

Asifi Masjid on left

Roomi gate in far center and river Gomti

Roof and burj along the sides

The back side boundary

In the back side view you see present Medical college (KGMC, now CSJMMC)

Teele wali Mosque

Bauli or Stepwell:
The imambara complex has a step well also called Bauli, which is a 5 storied structure. It was made for royal baths and also for taking construction water. It's water source was river Gomti.

Way down to step well

Renovation is being done, presently well filled with construction garbage

Asifi Mosque opposite to Bauli entrance

Before exiting the imambara complex I tried my hands to test my photography skill on floral beauty in the garden of the premises. A few shots are here-

An unusual variety of palm

A craftsman selling handmade small Lucknawi Jutis (shoes) for INR 10

After visit of this place we proceeded towards chota (small) imambara, picture gallary and clock tower, which is in next episode of this series.
A day in Lucknow - The City of Nawabs (Part-2)